Hard to swallow?

Michael Pollan's book The Omnivore's Dilemma has engendered much buzz and admiration. Pollan inquires into the origins of the food that Americans consume and suggests that a switch to a more ethical regime is in order. Now in the September issue of The Atlantic Monthly, B. R. Myers argues that for gourmets (gourmands?) like Pollan, the pleasures of the palate trump any serious moral concern for the treatment of animals.